Flags everywhere!

Around June 8th or so suddenly all of the German flags came out: on people's cars (both the kind that stick up from the windows and side view mirror covers that look like flags), on buildings, hanging from balconies, in restaurants.  It was like the German equivalent to the 4th of July in the US.  So which national holiday were we to celebrate?  The Euro Cup of course!

Fussball (football) is a big deal here.  Regular games are big enough, but the Euro Cup is of course even bigger.  Not only flags come out, but so do huge TVs.  Every restaurant, bar, food stand, and sometimes the bakeries suddenly has TVs for people to hang out and watch.  And they put them right outside so people can enjoy sitting outside, having a beer or dinner, and watching the game.  (Berliners love to sit outside and now that it is warm and the sun is out till 10pm, no one wants to sit inside.)  You can pretty much walk down the street and not miss much of game as you walk from viewing one TV to the next.  Or you could go to public viewings at Tempelhof Airport (yes, the airport of the Berlin Airlift is now a place to watch the Euro Cup) or at Brandenburger Tor.  We have heard that at Tempelhof you may not get within viewing distance even if you go an hour and a half before the game, so we haven't bothered.

2 TVs from our seats at dinner

And in case you don't have the TV on, you can often tell what is going on by the yelling.  As I write it is the quarter final game between Germany and Greece.  The whole neighborhood is going crazy over near misses and exciting plays.  You can hear people cheering and shouting.  For the last Germany game when they scored people were setting off what sounded like cannons nearby.  And now Germany scores to make the score 1-0.  Tonight's choice noise-makers seem to be air-horns and fireworks!

 So as you can see it is a bit like the 4th of July...cheering, cannons, fireworks, and national pride.

Go Deutschland!

Halbzeit Eier (Half-time eggs)

Karneval der Kulturen

No frowny faces allowed

On the weekend of Pentecost Sunday, which in Germany is a 3-day weekend, Berlin celebrates the cultures that make up the city.  Last weekend was the 17th Karneval der Kulturen.  It is an all weekend event starting on Friday and ending Monday evening.  The main event is the parade on Sunday.

The Karneval takes place between Mehringdamm and Hallesches Tor, so is pretty close to where we live.  This made this festival even better for us because we could just walk over and back whenever we felt like it.  It is also completely our type of things as other than the parade it was a giant food festival with food from all over the world. 

Bigos (Beegohsh)- Note in back is an AK47 of vodka

Best sign

We tasted many cultures over the weekend, fitting in as much as possible by only ordering one of anything and splitting it.  We had Mexican burritos, South American empanadas, Polish pierogies, Polish Bigos (sauerkraut and meat, rather like what we had in Prague), Indian samosas, Spanish chorizo, Dresdener Handbrot (bread filled with cheese and mushrooms topped with sour cream), a trendy chicken, raisin, and date wrap, German strawberries in cream, Egyptian Kushari, Jamaican funky chicken, African BBQ chicken, and Ghanan fried plantains and beans. I really can't pick a favorite.  Just writing about makes me miss the festival.  Sadly many of the stands do not have restaurants in Berlin.  As far as drinks went, we had coconut juice straight from the coconut (so Hawai'i), Brazilian caipirinhas, Southern German Schwarzbeir, Mexican Corona, Cuban Mojitos, German Strawberry Bowle (in this case a whole cup full of strawberries in a bit of strawberry wine), an unsweetened strawberry and rhubarb smoothie, and West African palm beer.

African BBQ

The parade was also quite an experience.  It was the longest parade I have ever known.  We walked down Gneisenaustrasse, which was the parade route, until we ran into the parade.  Then we walked back to find a good place to watch and waited for it to catch up to us.  Some of the parts of the parade where just what you would expect of a Culture Parade:  the name of the country on the sign, and people singing and dancing in traditional garb.  However, there were also some skits going on that were very odd and at least one theater group that seemed to be doing interpretive dance as they went.  There were clearly a lot of dance schools in the parade showing off a variety of types of dances.  We also saw a Vegetarian group with a giant fake pig and many signs telling us why we should not eat meat.  In general, it was a very random parade.  And we didn't see it all.  We stayed for about 3 hours and then went home for a while.  We then went back to meet up with some friends, thinking that the parade would be over.  We found them at parade group number 50 (about 20 past where we last saw).  And this was apparently only half-way.  As we started getting to parade group 65 the gaps between them started getting bigger and bigger.  As it was 6:30 and we had first started watching the parade at 1:30 or so we gave up and moved on for the evening.

Blue Dragon

Overall, I really enjoyed the Karneval der Kulturen.  I only wish it happened more than once a year.  But it is something to look forward to next spring!

Spargel- The Asparagus Craze

Fitting with the stereotype of being a kid, I always hated eating my peas.  To this day I really don't like them.  On the other hand I really enjoyed some of the things TV told me I shouldn't like:  spinach and asparagus (and TV would never lie).  I like to cook with spinach, but haven't used asparagus that much as I know it is more difficult to prepare well and I only like it if is not stringy. 

The Germans though take liking asparagus to another level.  But before I talk about that, I will give you some background on Spargel.  Spargel is German for asparagus, but refers to white asparagus, which is difficult to find in the US.  Green asparagus is usually referred to as grüner Spargel.  White asparagus is grown covered with dirt so that it does not see light until it is picked.  That is why it stays white.  If it has seen some light it gets tinged with purple.  I think that this kind looks nice, but it is considered marred.  I have read though that the purple doesn't actually change the taste, so I haven't been too picky about the coloring when buying Spargel.  The other thing you have to know when buying Spargel is that just because they are super thick doesn't mean that they will be less good.  In the US when I would buy asparagus I would always look for the thinnest ones as they always seemed to be the most tender.  Here you can't get thin asparagus.  This becomes helpful because you actually need to peel Spargel.  The first batch we bought was early in the season (mid April), so even though we peeled a good portion off of it it was still stringy.  I peeled some of that batch the next day but peeled off a bunch more and it was better.  If you peeled this much off US asparagus there would be nothing left.  We have heard that they are also stringy-er early in the season.  After peeling a ton (actually 2 kilograms) of Spargel in two days, I realized why the dishes with Spargel in it at the restaurants are a bit more expensive than most things here.

Spargel Soup at a Greek Restaurant

Last spring we were in Berlin for a weekend during Spargel season.  We didn't know it at the time.  We just noticed how every weekly special item no matter what restaurant we were in included asparagus.  Actually it was one of the new German words we learned on that visit since it was everywhere.  When out to dinner with some German friends we commented on this and they told us that you can only get Spargel fresh in the spring. So people eat a ton of it now because they can't get it again for the rest of the year.  And now that we are living here, it really does pervade through German daily life.  Suddenly everything comes with Spargel: soups, salads, pastas, pizza.  At one restaurant the weekly menu had listed Beelitzer Spargel as a main dish. (Beelitz is apparently a "thousand-year-old Spargel metropolis.")  When you read the description of the dish, you find that it is asparagus and new potatoes in hollandaise sauce with chicken.  I love that chicken became the side!  And it was a meal-sized portion of chicken too.  I've actually read that it's proper Spargel etiquette to always list the Spargel as the main part of the meal, no matter what else there is. (Why there is specific Spargel etiquette I don't know.)

You also see Spargel being sold everywhere.  We were at Treptower Park walking along the river Spree and set up near the food huts was a lady selling Spargel.  I went to the new mall on Schlossstrasse (which is actually like a huge American mall) and there was a Spargel stand set up as you walked into the mall.  I don't think I have ever been to a mall where I could buy produce as I entered the building.  It is also prominently displayed at the grocery store. And you can see above that it was the topic of the cooking magazine!
 

Spargel for soup

The peelings

Since I like asparagus anyway it has been nice to fall into the craze and I find that I often order something with it in it when we are out.  I also have tried to cook with it a bit while it is around.  I have tried what was said to be a traditional recipe from Saveur.com where you boil it with some lemon juice and also White Asparagus Soup.  Both were very good.  It has been a while since I have made anything with asparagus now so I am ready to buy some more, peel away, and try some new recipes. 

So if you are thinking, yum asparagus...come to Berlin in the spring and dig in.

1. Mai 2012

May 1st is Labor Day in Germany.  It is celebrated quite differently than the Labor Day in the US where schools are closed, but shops are open for big sales, and it is the last open weekend for beach season.  For me while growing up Labor Day meant school would open the next day.

In Berlin, it is a day for revolution.  Schools are still closed but so are most stores.  The restaurants and cafes being open as most people have off and can go to them.  There are political demonstrations and often riots.  It is a day to throw rocks and bottles at police.  (Which doesn't sound like the best of ideas in my book.)  Since the late 1980s the biggest demonstrations take place in Kreuzberg around the Kottbusser Tor area.  To try to reclaim the area from a day of rioting they have introduced MyFest, which is a street fair around the Kottbusser Tor area on May 1st.  I read somewhere that the police help to throw the fair to offset the riots, but I am not sure if this is true.  We were told that it was a fun street party for most of the day, but to make sure to leave when it seemed like most people were leaving.  We decided to give it a try.

So we headed out to the U-Bahn.  We are not very far from Kottbusser Tor, so it was easy to get there.  Because so many people go, the trains were running every minute making it even easier than normal.  This is an excellent strategy I think to keep people from being too packed in and to keep tensions down.

Once we arrived we joined the stream of people walking in the blocked off streets.  There were tons of food stands.  Some were the typical food stands at any fair or festival, some were outside stands for the restaurants behind them, and some were from people who lived in the apartments that lined the streets taking advantage of the throngs of people invading their streets.  Kreuzberg has a heavy Turkish population so it was not too surprising that most of the food available was Turkish.  Beer and mixed drinks were also easily available at every turn.


Music was everywhere too.  Because the street fest was spread out across several streets in the area there was no one place for a big stage to be set up so that everyone could listen.  Instead they set up many little stages here and there along the street.  As you walked you would go from being able to hear one band or DJ to the next.  Our favorite band was Puto Production, which is the group of guys playing drums seen here.  They were pretty good and their show was a lot of fun, so they drew a big crowd of listeners and dancers.  They played for quite a long time before taking a break too, which was quite impressive.  They played near another stage that was piping out a CD through speakers and this band kept playing louder as the music through the speakers also got louder. 

In the end we did not stay all too long because of lack of sunblock and a list of other things we had to do.  So we didn't get even close to the time where people start throwing things at police.  People were still out with their kids.  Some people almost complain that May 1st is getting too tame now, and that it's turned into just another street festival.  But I don't complain about it being a street festival.  I enjoy them.  And this one did not disappoint.

Ostern

We missed Easter in Germany this year.  We celebrated instead in Croatia which I will also tell you about in another post or two.  However, we were back to Berlin on Easter Monday.  Berlin is not the most religious of cities in Germany, however it is more so then in some places in the US, where for example schools were open the day after Easter.  Here not even the grocery stores reopened until Tuesday. 

When they did I found that the Easter Bunny had left some wonderful surprises at the grocery stores.  Candy at 50% off.  After the holiday is my favorite time to buy holiday treats!

Of course since I was in the US in February I picked up some of the full priced American Easter staples (to me at least...) Cadbury mini-eggs, Reeses Peanut Butter Eggs, and Starburst Jelly Beans.

And now I had to check out what German treats there were.  I was surprised that there really weren't any jelly beans.   The real shock about the candy is that it was mostly Lindt.  Not that I am complaining that they put high quality chocolate on super sale, but I am used to less fancy options.  I was not surprised to find that there were eggs filled with Marzipan, different types of Nougat, as well as chocolate and hazelnut chocolate creme (like Nutella).

There were also eggs filled with 2 cremes side by side in a variety of types.  I chose a mixed package with Egg-Liquor and Vanilla Cream together, Cranberry and something called Zabaione, and the last is Cappuccino and Cream.  They also have spoon eggs (Löffel Ei) which look like chocolate egg shells (the size of a real egg) with pudding inside that you eat with a spoon. 


And of course last but not least, Kinder Eggs.  I had heard about these from a friend before moving here who was lamenting that they could not be sold in the US.  They are chocolate eggs with toys inside of them.  The US has deemed them a safety hazard.  It made sense to me.  Who wants to bite into chocolate and have a toy come out?  But now that I have had one (they are out all of the time here) the whole problem seems silly.  The eggs are scored so that you can break them in half with your hands before you eat it.  It is just the shell (which in my opinion would be better filled with dark chocolate cream) with a small toy in a container inside.  The kids love them and they are fun.  (The toys are pretty advanced as you can see.)  And there is a big sign on them that says not for kids under the age of 3.  Seems reasonable to me. 

Of course so far this sits unopened.  I had opened the candy from the US on Monday and it will take quite a while to go through it without overloading on sugar.  But it will last for a while and will be a nice treat in the upcoming weeks.

Wine and Chocolate

One of our favorite parties to host is a Wine and Chocolate Tasting.  We have had one in February or March every year for the past three years.  It is fun because they are both great things on their own, and it is fun to try to find combinations that make them even better.  We were especially excited to try this in Berlin with a new wine selection to choose from.


To start, the internet is a great resource for finding wines that pair well with chocolates.  People who work at wine shops have also helped us out a lot.  I make several types of chocolate dishes for different types of chocolates, white, milk, semi-sweet, and dark.  I try to stick to things that are more chocolate than anything as some things will change with the wine.  For example, I thought about making a chocolate cheesecake, which I love, but it is too heavy for me to eat with wine, so I left it out.  We also put out different chocolate bars for people to have small samples with the wine.  This year we also tried adding tea to the list of pairings as a non-alcoholic option, which seemed to go over well.


Another big change this year was the layout.  In the past, we've set out a large table with the wines and chocolates all arranged a long it. This year, we spread the pairings out across tables placed throughout our apartment.  The wines and chocolates that pair well together went together.  I used ribbon to color code wines that crossed-over types of chocolate.  But we always encourage people to try what they want.  You never know!  I think that spreading the food and drinks worked really well because people knew they had not tried anything from a section yet and were more willing to make sure they got to each table to try new things.  When all of the chocolate is on one table it is easier to keep going back to the same thing and never quite make it to the rest.


Here is what we tried this year:




White Chocolate:
White chocolate goes well with sweeter wines, such as Muscatos, Cream Sherry, sweet Reislings and sweet Gewurztraminers (especially Reislings can be quite dry, so look at the label or ask).  This year the big hit was the Cream Sherry with the white chocolate options.

Oolong and Herbal tea go with white chocolate.  We put out Oolong and a Mango Lemon Tea, which people liked, but I don't know how well it went with the chocolate.


For white chocolate I made Paula Deen's White Chocolate Macadamia Nut Fudge, posted on another blog.  It is more creamy than traditional fudge and goes amazingly well with Muscato d'Asti (which we could not find here sadly).  From the Food Network I made a White Chocolate Berry Fool that was supposed to only have blackberries but included some random Berlin berries such as Johannisbeeren.  This one has more whipped cream than chocolate so was a nice lighter alternative when you had a bit too much chocolate (in case that is possible).  I also made a White Chocolate Silk Pie from All-Recipes with an almond crust instead of chocolate so as not to mix types of chocolate.  I also left off the whipped cream and berries so it didn't seem just like the Fool.   I don't love white chocolate, but these were all really good.



Milk Chocolate:
Milk Chocolate goes well with a lot of wines.  Some of them include Reisling, Champagne, Muscat, Pinot Noir, Ruby Port, Hungarian Tokaji (which we thought we would find being so close to Hungary, but no), light Merlot, Italian Sparkling wines, and dessert wines.


The same teas that go well with white chocolate are said to go with milk chocolate so we put out the Oolong and Mango Lemon Tea.


Milk Chocolate is not my favorite.  I prefer semi-sweet and dark.  So I never make as much in this category.  I also find it hard to find things to make that are milk chocolate.  Most things that you bake are semi-sweet chocolate and or are non-chocolate things with milk chocolate in them.  But I hate to only have candy bars out so I made milk chocolate covered strawberries, always a winner, and milk chocolate mousse.  The mousse is officially  Peanut Butter and Milk Chocolate Mousse Parfaits from Food and Wine, but I just made the Milk Chocolate Mousse part.  The mousse wasn't as light as a traditional mousse.   It tasted like a thick custard, but a really good chocolatey custard.   The next day it tasted like frosting!  For me this was great, because I love to eat a few spoonfuls of frosting and they don't really sell pre-made frosting here.


Semi-sweet/Dark Chocolate:
We always have the most types of wines at this end because when you think of pairing wines and chocolates these are the types that you think of.  There are also a lot of wines that go well with darker chocolates: Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfindel, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Tawny Port, Sangiovese, Syrah or Shiraz, Marsala, Beujulais, and Bordeaux.


White, Jasmine, and Green tea are said to go well with dark chocolates so we had some of each.


In our experience, there are always the most left overs in this category because you are supposed to try them last.  So make things you like!  My old standby here is a Flourless Chocolate Cake from Paula Deen, which she calls Deep Dark Chocolate Truffle Cake.  You can find the recipe in this blog. She drizzles it with a white chocolate sauce, but I prefer it with a raspberry or other berry compote.  This cake is relatively easy to make and I had made it before for some of the people who were coming.  When they asked if I was making it I figured I would make two just to make sure there was enough (we did have about 20-25 people).  However, we never even started the other one and I brought it to work to share on Monday.  The other recipe I love is Truffle Tarts with Raspberries from Food Network.  I always use very dark chocolate for these and make them in mini-muffin tins so that they aren't so over-whelming and so you can try more things!   I do recommend just adding the chocolate to the liquid mixture you are heating otherwise my chocolate never melts and it is a bit of a mess.  Last but not least I made a Chocolate Honey Almond Tart, also from Food Network, that was amazing.   It was my new recipe here and is a winner.   I can't wait to try it again.



This party is always fun because people get to try lots of types of food and wine and can talk about what they like best or not.   I highly recommend trying one.  Just make sure to have a double boiler or a bowl that will fit in a pot with hot water.  It works much better than trying to melt chocolate in the microwave, despite what the recipes say.  Happy Tasting!

Random Berlin

 

This weekend marked the first nice weekend since the fall.  While it may be too early to say that Spring is officially here, I can say that we took full advantage of the sunny, warm days and not too cold nights.  We started our Saturday outside at Knofi, a cafe on Bergmannstrasse, eating breakfast and people watching. After dropping our coats and getting some sunblock, we went to Admiralsbrücke and met a friend.  We walked up and down the canal.  It seemed like all of Berlin was out.  We stopped for ice cream and a while later drinks.  The outdoor seating at all the cafes and bars were of course mostly full.  We also found this bar pictured here which I think has the best name.  We were on our way home at this point, but we will go back.

Later in the evening we headed out to dinner near Warschauer Strasse.  At the U-bahn station you come out onto a street that is raised.  On the sidewalk of the street below a DJ had set up a turntable, getting power from his car.  Few people were dancing yet, but the night was young.

After dinner we went back to Warschauer Strasse and crossed the bridge there to go to another friend's house.  While walking over the bridge fireworks started from the bank a little bit up the river.  We thought it would just be one or two, but it turned into a whole show.  The craziest thing was that a guy who was among the others who had also stopped to watch started playing the Star Spangled Banner.  I took a bit of video.  Listen and you will hear the end of the song.  (I was in too much shock to start near the beginning.)  It was a very odd Berlin moment on a St Patrick's Day night.   

You never know what may happen in a city.  And when the weather is nice and people are out it becomes even more random.